A hot time of holidays and examinations was not a case to prevent us from making a scheduled tour to Belovezhskaya Pushcha. The participants from Gomel city got rather tired because they spent for day and night to come and back. Nevertheless we were under emotions to be expecting meeting one of the most known nature protection sites, which is in the UNESCO World Heritage Site List and under strong governmental protection.
However it is hardly an easy shock to call what we have seen and heard. I will not let you into my emotions. You will be clear after you will get to know replays of the readers and to look photos of the editor team (see pages 4, 5, 7, 16, 17, and the newspaper cover).Both the readers and editor team are expecting to receive the answers from the competent persons who are responsible to provide nature protection activity control in national parks and reserves, as response to our numerous questions. It is especially because "annually over $ one million is allocated only from the budget to serve the National Park and to provide nature protection activities. More than 500 experts, scientists and employees of the protection guard department and ecological education division work in the National Park". (The quotation is from the document "On situation in the National Park "Belovezhskaya Pushcha").
The fact is also very surprising because the excursion service organizers were informed very well about the purposes of our tour. I was assured that there are skillful guides who will be much more competent to give an excursus-lecture in the Pushcha’s forest than employees of the scientific department... It turns out that this kind of ecological education should be a model to teach our young generation, according to organizers’ point of view?! Or are they indifferent because their main goal is to take visitors’ money?
It is a pity of course that not all readers were able to be gathering. But commence has been starting! Let's hope this will not be the last visiting the reserved areas of our “blue-eye” Belarus, despite of sad memories about the seen...
Page 7:
... To tell the truth, in the beginning I considered a travel to Belovezhskaya Pushcha just an opportunity to outline in circle the next noteworthy spot on a map of Belarus which I visited. But fortunately, it has failed to simply tick in a list of travels because both my eyes and heart shared a view I had to see. I was forbidden to be in my "Bohemia" indifferent condition since the meeting with the faithful readers and authors of the “World of Animals" newspaper excluded a case of such sincere dream. Among them were Zarina Shevko, Sophia Zarovskaya, Ella Dontsova, Denis Kisel …
Disappointments were also faced. The excursion across the Belovezhskaya Pushcha forest was turned to a worthless show. It’s hardly that somebody from our team who was interesting to explore nature actually liked thoughtless histories about trees of love and some boss called Zina (she keeps fifty men to rule them with a rod of iron)... The story about a Park’s forest warden who annually, to have rest in holiday, goes to the Kamchatka peninsula (Russia) to kill a bear, otherwise "he can have heart attack”, was “impressive"... We silently listened to how General Secretary Khrushchev liked Pushcha, about his kennels, and local she-inhabitants called sorceresses… On the other hand, there were amusing elements in this good-for-nothing excursion. For instance, those girls who tested pitch of a czarina-pine tree are now waiting for the matchmakers. Proposal "to take off the evil eye" near an aspen tree (the photo below) also made certain stir. When I said our guide that I do not fill any little pricking on the finger tips, she started making explanations that not all people are susceptible to fill fine pulses of the magic tree. Only then we were told that energy-power pulses from trees actually exist but the human being cannot sense them...
All the same the "World of Animals" editor team would not be in accord with itself if any unpleasant cases were not stipulated. There was some time before to depart and we, in quiet conditions with a cup of tea in the cosy cafe "Alesya", have learned each other more deeply and exchanged impressions that compensated our bewilderment got from the visit.
It is obvious that many people not only allow raising the cult of ecumenical indifference but even try to impose own near-sectarian opinion and to involve the others. Maybe, if our purposes to arrive here were another, it is quite possible we would find this excursion interesting. However it is extra-inexcusable and shocking because the accepting party was notified beforehand that we are not just a team of tourists thirsting for shows, nevertheless there were no efforts to make our dialogue with the reserved wood more ecologically competent and cognitive.
Unfortunately, we already get used to disappointments and to the fact that in our country is always "impossible to turn to the worse". However, the neglectful conditions in the UNESCO World Heritage’s Reserve, starting with bad labels shown the names of staffed animals in the Museum of Nature and ending, as it is sad, with awful conditions of keeping animals in the enclosures, has caused more than just shock of mind and heart. So if we will further keep silence our approach will be not shared by the descendants. We must choose.
Marina Dudarenko,
The student of the journalistic faculty of the Belarusian State University,
Minsk-Gomel
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"Taking off the evil eye" near an aspen tree being instructing by the guide
... Together with the friends, I am under inconsistent impressions got after the trip to Belovezhskaya Pushcha. It is a very pity that many people could not join us! Though, if to be honest, the excursion has not brought pleasure for me...
But it was possible really to see the reserved wood in its condition, in my opinion, poorly similar to the protected one. Car-road net, felled sites with stacked fire wood and a plot to work with dogs are attributes there...
The Museum was especially shocking. We were told "These are wolf cubs of two-week old age... This is one of the rarest birds in Pushcha"... Look there, stuffed animals have been made from them, not only from adult animals but also from young ones...
Impression is appeared that the people who work here are little interesting in Pushcha as a natural site where the basic purpose is to defend nature from pernicious human impact. They are more interesting in this forest as a tourist area and source to extract timber.
I think it is necessary to pay more attention to our guide. She said a lot but proper information about the reserved forest was next to nothing. I was just exasperating by her talk about love to animals which, alas, was not visible there. Maybe, it was useful to tape her story, but only for the purpose of the sad laughing when is hearing it again...
It seems the certain conclusions can be made already: unfortunately, there would take more care to this wood in any other country.
Nevertheless, the trip was successful! I precisely know now what is doing there, in the reserved wood which I dreamed to visit being from early childhood. In spite of everything, Belovezhskaya Pushcha still keeps remnants of bygone greatness. I want to believe that there will be people who will help this forest.
It was very pleasant to meet you, dear editor team of the “World of Animals"! It is pretty that there are the people who really love nature. It is obvious that they are completely involving in their business. At least their faces full of interest and emotions allowed us easy to distinguish them from others. I am very happy that I was able to see my friends, being in correspondence before, as well as to meet new adherents! We communicated earlier and many of them brought their albums. But the most admired were pictures made by Denis Kitel - a lot of rare birds, nests. The only true ornithologist can steal up so close and not frighten off the birds.
Svetlyachok, Sonya Zarovskaya, Marina Dudarenko, Ella Dontsova, Nastya Golubeva, Romashka and all others have created a particular atmosphere for dialogue. I am very grateful to all editor staff and girls, Sveta Levkevich and Tatiana Matsyganova, who "granted" this idea! I was waiting for this trip for a whole month: my dreams come true - to see Pushcha and to meet everyone whom I trust my ideas through the letters...
It is a very pity I had to be convinced in the fact that Belovezhskaya Pushcha has become an example of how, in opinion of the businessmen from tourism sector, specially protected natural territories (SPPT), including even the unique national Reserve (!), exist basically “to provide educational interest"... Sure, wilderness protection is to be developed in our country but in fact the process goes back. It is stupid when SPPTs are deprived a status of reserves and transferred into national parks. Tourism brings a very harm to nature. But if it is impossible to avoid it in any way, there could make it safety to nature like it is doing in the advanced countries. As to me, I thought we will walk along an earth and rather narrow path during the excursion, but it proved to be that there are a lot of asphalt-covered roads there, as well as cars and buses are not a rarity!
It would be much desirable to turn all gaps to the right... Perhaps if the public will protest against disgraces which take place in the SPPTs, the managing bodies will begin to make something. It would be good to bring issues into the practice and to unite the people who really want to help nature.
I would willingly help but I do not know in what way...
Zarina Shevko,
15 years ald, Mozyr town
Page 16-17:
… I am writing this letter with some feeling. I know now whom to address it! I am grateful to the editor team for this meeting, for your ability to organize it. All was successful! You cannot imagine the filling when so much people are glad to see you, when you know that all of them also love the surrounding world, like you love it.
The most pleasant and colourful impressions remained after the meeting. I felt that all the surrounding me people are the native to me… My current visiting Belovezhskaya Pushcha is not the first and I already saw what conditions are in the Museum and enclosures with animals therefore perhaps pleasure of meeting was beyond gloomy feelings. But they were also present.
I do not want to appear for reconstruction of the museum at all because it will require making new exhibits. But I consider that it was necessary long time ago to change all pained stands and photos in the Museum and to design it in another way. At the present moment everything inside the Museum is looking rather grey and gloomy.
The names of bird species were necessary right to place long time ago, some of them are even wrong.
Indeed, the Museum conditions are pitiable. I do not know what to say about enclosures. You are aware of how madly I like the wolves therefore I went up to them first of all. Since 2002, when I was in Pushcha for the last time, the wolves have grown thin to a great extant. The she-wolf has the damaged ear. The wolves have lost all their pride. Their eyes were looking at me like these were of the mongrel dog’s ones…
The animals were tossing side to side, expecting to get a sop… Only this is enough to understand that Pushcha should be another! The most pain is to feel that the people responsible to serve them are inactive.
Having seen photos of year of 2002, I noticed that even a small shop located in the Museum has turned to the worse. The fact is there is almost nothing to buy for memory …
I think there is no matter to continue my story because all is very clear. It is a pity that we cannot change anything…
However it would be much desirable to meet again! I hope it will happen... It would be good to make such meetings as a tradition …
Ella Dontsova, Brest city
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A "love tree" (?), an aspen and birch trees growth-joined up and down is one of the "sights" of Belovezhskaya Pushcha
I was glad that I could see all "little-stars" of the “World of Animals". They are Svetlyachok, Zarina Shevko, Sonya Zarovskaya, Denis Kitel (and his artily made photo-pictures!), Ella Dontsova with her famous red-brown miracle Chaki, which could not sit at one place and pleased us by its friendliness. I was also glad personally to meet the chief-editor Natalia Slyadneva and all her editor team. This event is not for every day to happen! Certainly, it is a very pity that not all readers came to Pushcha. I wanted to see them as well.
Below is about Belovezhskaya Pushcha. In the beginning, we visited the Museum of Nature. However what is to make a stuffed animal from living one for? Is it to allow the people to see an outline of animal? It is suitable if the animal will be lost by natural way, but I do not understand and not support if the animal will be put to slip only to make the stuffed one.
Then we went across Belovezhskaya Pushcha in bus. The only, I was taking an interest for two hours of driving, were a beautiful picturesque lake, beaver dam, old-timer oak tree, and bison "head" grown on a birch tree. It is a very pity that we could not drive in Viskuly although it would be desirable much to see this place!
All animals in enclosures were friendly. It was visible they have got used to the human presence. An elk is beautiful. A bison is large like mountain. Wild boars are interesting. Horses and bears are kind…
I also noticed that the skins of animals were on sale. It means they kill animals, in spite of the fact that they live in Belovezhskaya Pushcha!
It is said that Belovezhskaya Pushcha is a natural site untouched by human. But we were convinced that the situation is looking another! Certainly the forest is under protection but there are a lot of people always all around. The serving staff is also numerous. Certainly, all these leave some traces in Pushcha.
Coming back we visited a holy source. We drunk very cold and freshening water, washed faces and felt much easier at once.
We also visited a village where I met a very friendly blue-eye Siamese cat which kindly purred, good red dog which licked my hands, goat Belka and its baby, one more cat, and a beautiful, cream colour and kind horse which I stroked and fed with an apple.
Returning to the home, we met many horses on a pasture and storks. A fox which ran along a road was the most surprising.
Our travel has passed in this way. I am glad that I was a participant.
Nadezhda Tabolich, Grodno city
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Badgers (the stuffed animals)
… I will try to tell about my impressions I got during the meeting in Belovezhskaya Pushcha. We departed from Grodno city at eight o'clock in the morning. It was not as hard as I know about a bus departed from Gomel at four o'clock. Moving on a road, we saw a lot of interesting - magnificent horses of diverse colours and large amount of storks. I saw a stork nest on a house roof for the first time. We stopped at a huge warrior monument in the town of Svisloch. We could not drive further unless to make a memorable photo. Coming back we met two herons and a fox, which hunted for mice. We visited a holy water source...
However, the most interesting was in the village of Kamenyuki. I was very glad to meet Denic Kitel, Nastya, Ella Dontsova and especially Chaki (I did not expect to meet him), as well as Marina Dudarenko from Gomel. By the way, we all together looked photos made by Denis, which provoked my admiration. I do not know how he managed to catch such moments!
I will not act against one’s conscience and will tell honestly about impressions I got from excursion. I liked much a bear which was placed in a Museum corner like specially to attract the tourists. I saw the staffed tarpan-like horses for the first time. But a collection of butterflies left unpleasant impression. I do not know why it concerned only to butterflies. The impression was that they were specially killed to be exposed in the Museum.
After the visiting the Museum of Nature, we went to the "reserved" wood by bus. "Untouched sites" of the Pushcha’s forest got to bring unpleasant surprise. There were much fire wood and traces of human intervention along a road. A mighty 560-years old giant oak tree and a high shapely 360-years old pine tree commanded respect. I admired with a lake. It was like the magic. As to beavers and all other animals, probably they were tied of tourists therefore no one of them appeared to show their bodies.
We went across the Pushcha’s forest around half an hour. Listening to a monologue of a guide, it was possible to think that she offers us to scratch row in the ancient pine tree, to take a soil for tomatoes growing in beds and to ruin Belovezhskaya Pushcha as a whole! The impression was she (the guide) told only aiming do not keep silence. Nevertheless we got to hear something from the Pushcha’s history.
Having finished the bus forest travel, we visited zoo enclosures with wild boars, bison, elks, spotty deer, pony-horses and brown bears. But conditions to keep the Pushcha’s wolves are awful, though you did not visit the Grodno zoo yet…
We were disappointing after looking the tarpan-like horses, a grey vauilting-horse and a red stallion. The only what they inherited from their far relatives is a belt on a back. As to the third horse, it was more similar to its ancestors. We could not pass by lean dogs with plaintive eyes at a parking site. Nadya Tabolish gave them all meal rests.
So, many things require to be improved in Pushcha. Bu if to say just about the meeting, the most important to me was to see my friends. When else will I meet Zarina? Whether will I see Denis, Nastya, Marina, Ella, and especially Chaki?.. This meeting was very important to me.
Remember, in the May edition you have written such the lines "We really become a large and amicable family, one and all". The truth is the atmosphere was friendly like within family. All were pleased to meet. It seems to me that we even became closer after the travel to Pushcha. I would like to make such the meetings to become a tradition while more and more readers may come and communicate. If we will work together, not all is yet to lose on the planet Earth …
Svetlana Levkovich, Grodno city
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A Papilio Butterfly
The editorial note. … Alas, Belovezhskaya Pushcha, famous from songs and video-films, is absolutely another today. This trip has helped remove axiomatic luster covered the National Park. It is very visible that the Museum of Nature needs to be under a great care. As to Pushcha and its separate parts, they remind more a timber-harvesting plot than a reserved area. Heart bled when we saw the sitting in cages (!) pitiful animals namely wolves, raccoon dogs, brown bear etc.
There was a question at once: where have we got, in the national park or in the zoo?
Despite of all negative moments, we want to believe that this “landing” of the “World of Animals” team in Belovezhskaya Pushcha will not be the last visit of reserved areas of Belarus. Where will the future way run, in what national park or reserve? Pripyatski National Park? Berezinski Biosphere Reserve?...
Ju. I. Maximenko, Deputy Director of the Gomel OUB,
Member of the editor team of the newspaper "World of Animals"
Photo by E. Agibalov
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The editor team of the "World of Animals" newspaper in Belovezhskaya Pushcha (the third from right is the editor-chief Natalia Slyadneva)
(Photos by by A. Kalechonok, E. Agibalova, M. Dudarenko have been used)
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The last page
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